2010 Pics n Slips
2010's Planned
Mods
Wire house for
200amp, garage 60amp(240v) |
done |
Kobalt 4.5hp 80gallon
14cfm compressor |
done |
Tear 408 down to long
block & install |
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Install
PATC Ramzilla trans & Precision 3800rpm stall tc |
done |
Install Energy
Suspension bushings in c arms |
done |
Blast,
wire wheel, powder coat Belltech drop springs |
done |
Install ES bushings
in leaf springs |
done |
Blast & powder coat
front sway bar |
done |
Strip, blast, wire
wheel &
powder coat
spindles |
done |
Install Moog tie rods
& sleeves |
done |
Make bracket to hold
2nd FAST box, blast & pwdrct it |
working on it |
Blast & powder coat
driveshaft |
done |
Re-install front
suspension |
done |
Make 2 backets for
intercooler |
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June 25-28,
End of Aug last year my 11yr old compressor died
(rebuilt it once) & decided it was time for some real power in the
garage (extension chord city) & a real compressor (5.5cfm/120v) that
could handle the work I was trying to do. After the compressor died it
was a never ending list of other items that died at the house,
including my main pc hard drive, furnace & ac, playstation 3, over
range microwave, etc etc etc. Finally all caught up & able to carry on
in the garage now.
I got the house switched over to 200amp breakers
& power run out to the garage for 60amp 240V. Friday had 2
electricians changing things over (930am-1130pm) Master electrician
returned following day for 2hrs & Monday for 2hrs. Now have 2-120v
circuits (for now/add more when Indy assembled) & 2-240v circuits. I
can now run both the compressor & a full size oven at the same time as
well as lights & music (turned up real loud lol)
June 29, Ran
the compressor with no load (valve open) for 1/2hr to start break in.
Of coarse I can't leave things as is! Compressor air filters covers
(3cylinder) were a bit dinged up (same flat black as pump) so I pulled
them & sandblasted them & wire wheeled them one at a time.
While I had one off needed something to use for the filter so the
Procharger TB hat seemed appropriate lol.. Powder coated them Indy
blue to get back in the swing of things & practise my technique. Look
better now :)
July 1-2, got
the c arm bushings in both the upper & lower arms. Oh & I painted the
garage door I should of obviously painted years ago lmao. I spent about 4hrs blasting & wire wheeling all the coating off my drivers
side Belltech spring. Pic of spring below can see one blasted the
other I just started with wire wheel first (ugly grey w/rust spots) Not quite done, hope to finish it tomorrow &
then put it in the oven for 2hrs before coating it. Going with chrome
finish on it.
July 3,
finished off prepping the drivers side spring, another 2hrs work on the
pass. side & Ill be ready to coat them both. Played with the oven a bit,
tweaking element & one of the racks so I can get the spring in. Real
tight fit & be a balancing act, as long as I don't drop it be fine
LOL.
Wire wheeled all the lower c arm bolts, coated them with reflective
chrome powder. Installed upper/lower arms on drivers side. Want to coat
them but the lower arms are too big for the oven. They don't look too bad
& didn't feel like removing the new bjoints or making an extension for
the oven..
July 4-5, cleaned up the garage again & reorganized
things, bit tight with the new compressor & stove. Cleaned up the inside
of the Procharger tb hat. Finished prepping both springs & coated them
with chrome pwdrct, turned out great.
End of last summer when my compressor died I had redone the Duplicolor
blue on the spindles. Now that I have a real compressor & bigger oven I
already want to strip the spindle down & blast, sand & coat it with my
Indy blue. Doesn't match close enough for my liking, probably get some
paint stripper today to let them soak. (flash makes it look farther off
than it actually is btw)
July 6, first major heat wave of the
year (last few days), with the humidex it has been between 100-112*.
(Canada/not use to this heat) Compressor & oven not helping any in that
respect so work has really slowed to a crawl at best lol. Got the
passenger side control arms back on, the lower was a real PITA cause the
ES bushing & metal sleeve kept wanting to pop out before I could get it
in position. Haven't pulled the rotors/dust shields off the spindles
yet, will do that later today & get the paint stripping started.
July 7,
still plugging away on the first spindle, stripped the paint off,
probably need about one hour more blasting it. Have to dump the
media(80grit glassbead) in the blast cabinet, its done (going to dust).
Should go a bit faster with fresh media & eliminate a lot of the dust.
July 8,
didnt get anything done today. Power was off most of the day till about
6pm. Went out did some running around (Princess Auto). Got something I
can use for feet for the compressor, few air fittings so I wont keep
blowing the line off the blast gun as well as another 150lbs of glass
bead media for the cabinet. Replaced the mylar film inside the cabinet
(protects the window) as well. Also got 3/8" steel rod to use for
hanging the spindles (one at a time) inside the oven.
July 9,
Blasted the last of the first spindle, but too damp out (90-100%
humidity) to powder something of this size & complexity (shape).
Stripped the paint off the 2nd spindle. Lifted the compressor with
some ratchet straps & got the feet on it. Will work for now but need to
find some 3.5" washers to go on top of the rubber feet. Also levelled
the oven & got a small piece of plywood up on the wall along with a
shelf.
July 10,
great weather, blasted the pass. spindle, wiire wheeled it, cleaned it,
taped & pwdrct it. Drivers side spindle I stripped, grinded/sanded &
blasted. Will need another 1hr blasting tomorrow & then coat it as well.
Pics of both spindles at various stages below.
July 11,
drivers spindle needed a bit more work than I thought. Almost 2hrs of
blasting, another hour with the wire wheel (8" & 4"), then cleaning &
taping. Spent another hour mixing powder & prepping everything. Spindle
turned out great. Made sure I got the bearing races completely covered.
The passenger side spindle I didnt do as good a job tapping it so I
spent some time using pwdrct remover. Got 1/2 of it off, will probably
go over it again on Tuesday (no time Monday). Can see the difference in
the pic below of both spindles together.
July 15,
working on bracket for FAST CEL box to sit on. I cut piece of steel to
size with angle grinder, drilled the holes to mount it to the passenger
side fender. Bead blasted one side, still need to add holes for hold
downs. Going to try using a pair of rubber bungee to hold it in
position. Off to pick up some Moog tie rods & sleeves for the steering.
July 18,
thought I could pwdrct the tire rod sleeves but don't see any way to do
it right. Will swap the oem tie rods for moog rods & sleeves. Have the
Moog balljoints as well as Energy Suspensioin poly bushings now. EBC
dimpled slotted rotors & Hawk extreme pads & Russel SS lines front &
rear.
July 20, got startled out of bed at
640am after a car hit our house, the wifes Yaris & my 2500 V10 in the
driveway. V10 maybe a write off, Yaris is repairable & will probably be
getting new front steps for the porch as well.
Case of road rage. Woman driver got
cut off by the guy in the black Caddy (in pic #8) earlier while heading
south & then tried to pass him in the center turn lane. He saw her
trying to pass so accelerated. She cut back in & tagged his rear end
spinning him 360* and then proceeded over 2nd neigbhors driveway, across
the boulevard, glancing off the pole. As she went across neigbhor
driveway she just missed hitting him in his car (having smoke before
heading out) by about 1'.
The concrete light standard deflected
her trajectory, so instead of T boning the Yaris it sent her up our 4
steps with the top step deflecting her away from the house. She got
airborne & tagged the back of the Yaris & landed on the passenger side
of the V10 (pushing it back 2' & sideways 1/2'). The corner of the
neighbors house to the south pretty well stopped her car (hit 5' off
ground) & it dropped down into their bushes.
Fluke no one got injured or killed by
this. The Jags airbags didn't even go off & she only had minor
bumps/bruises. Could clearly see the marks from the Caddy doing a
360 on the road but no brake marks at all from the Jag except after
hitting the pole (collapsed fender locked up tire).
Here is some pics of the
carnage.
This is the woman that was driving
the Jag
July 23, finally
got a hold of the appraiser, V10 is getting fixed so no new truck for
me. (7800damage & 1000 in towing)
Installed the new Moog tie rods in both sides, got
the last of the powder coat I needed to remove off the pass. side
knuckles inner bearing race. Installed the spring, knuckle & dust
shield, rotor & calliper on the passenger side. Just need to put the
shock on & dust cap & I can put the wheel on.
*noticed the other driver involved in the big crash
(driving Caddy) came back to the scene of the crime today lol. (showing
girlfriend?)
July 24, blasted,
wire wheeled & powder coated the shock bolts (chrome), used Indy blue
pwdrct on the funny nut for the bolts & the washers for the rubber
bushings on top of the shocks. Got the drivers side spring, knuckle,
dust shield & tie rod attached.
July 25,
installed the drivers side rotor, callipers & shocks on both sides.
Still have the sway bar off cause Ill be doing something with it.
(debating color). Put the stock wheels back on & got her off the jack
stands so Ill be able to roll her out of the garage. Back on all 4
without bed, motor, trans & fuel & battery drivers side sitting 1/8"
lower than passenger side. Wish I could weigh it at each corner.
July 27, got the
front drivers side front leaf spring out of the hanger popped the rubber
bushing out & pressed in the Energy Suspension poly bushing. Went to
torque it down & snapped the bolt off. Haynes manual says 150ftlb on the
96. Cause of the Belltech hanger the bolt goes in from the front with
the unt on the back. Cant torque the nut only the bolt so Im just going
to use a hand wrench & tighten it lots instead of using my 3' torque
wrench.
July 31, just got
back from the dealer, leaf spring bolt came to $41.25 w/HST (hated sales
tax) & didn't include a new nut
Aug 1 to Aug 8,
I
replaced the broken leaf spring bolt & then went on to screw up on the
shackle next lol. I popped out the bushing from the first Belltech
shackle. Looked like the new poly bushing was the same size but after
getting the rubber one out I found out they weren't the same. Got the
stock shackle to compare & sure enough, the Belltech is about 1/8"
smaller dia. Took a fair bit of playing around over 2days to get the
rubber bushing & sleeve back into the Belltech shackle. I dont have
bushing press so had to try a few things to McGiver it back in. Screwed
up the rubber a little bit getting it back in but luckily its on the
bottom side & all the weight is on the top of the bushing so it will be
fine. What started out as a very easy install I managed to make much
more difficult than need be lol.
I separated the bottom plate for the trans tail shaft
that holds the rubber dampener that attaches to the cross member.
Blasted, wire wheeled it & pwdrctd it with the Indy mix. Didn't take any
pics before or while I was working on it, just when I was finished. Also
coated the bolts as well.
When I killed my old compressor last year I was
working on blasting the driveshaft. I only got it about 1/2 way
done when the compressor died. So I ended up spending about 2hrs
blasting the whole thing. Its going to be a real PITA to pwdrct. I will
have to reblast the whole thing outside again to get rid of any rust
that forms by the time Im ready to pwdrct. I have to use my pressurized
blast tank so I dont get a ton of dust floating in the garage. Then take
the wire wheel to it. I may not be able to spray the pwdr in my pwdr hut
thats just outside the side door. May have to spray the pwdr in the
garage which I never do. Ive made up a reflector that will be also able
to support the shaft but not sure if Ill use it or not. During this
coming week I will roll the truck out of the garage & do some testing of
lifting the shaft on & off the reflector to see if its even feasible to
use it. Reflector has a wood frame on so hate to set it on fire trying
to cure the pwdr lol. Not looking forward to this one. If I screw it up
its going to take a ton of time to strip it back down again. If the
reflector doesnt pan out then Ill just hang the shaft from the ceiling,
spray the powder & cure it with the IR lamp right where it is hanging to
make things easier. Hmm, Im almost thinking that I shouldnt even bother
with the reflector now,,,,,,
Aug 28 - Sept 4, the last month ended up
wasting a lot of time with stuff related to the accident. Finally got the V10
back (mid Aug) & for just over a week was back & forth returning it cause it was
leaking trans fluid at the radiator (they installed 2nd new rad finally). Friday
just past noticed one piece of trim on the wife's Yaris that should of been
replaced so back for that. The last 2weeks I had been doing repairs to my
driveway & steps. Told the insurance company I would do the work for less then
the quotes they got. Had to do a decent sized patch, fill in some cracks &
the ashpalt had pulled away from the house from back door to front of building.
Took a while to complete cause the ants kept digging back up through it. So had
to kill them & mix sealant with sand so they couldnt get through, turned out
great. After cleaning & degreasing where trans fluid & minor oil leaks
were I sealed the driveway. (about 120'x8.5'). Naturally I ended up doing it on
one of the hottest days of the year (40C). Only did one coat, will put another
coat on it next spring (week of rain/time off finished).
Sandblasted the driveshaft yet again cause of
spot rust returning (too long since I blasted it last). Coated it with chrome
powder coat. First time using my IR lamp, due to the length of the driveshaft it
took most of the day to cure it. Turned out pretty good considering it was my
first time using the lamp. Didn't hang it from the reflector I made, instead
hung it from the ceiling & stood the reflector on end behind it.
Also painted the trans case this week with
silver ceramic paint (caliper paint). Pulled the linkage attached to the trans
off. (no case/linkage pics prior to paint/polish/pwdrct) Arm attached to the one
linkage I couldnt seperate so I ended up wire wheeling it then polishing it.
Both pieces turned out really well. 3rd piece couldn't get plastic grommet out
(holds/protects trans fluid line) so just painted it silver. The last smaller
arm I wire wheeled, then polished it as well as put a coat of my Indy mix on it
& one washer & small piece that 2 springs attach to.
Separated the tv cable from the bracket at
the trans, blasted the bracket bolt & washer as well as the nut for the tran
line. Pwdrct the bracket & washer with the Indy mix & the bolt & nut in mirror
black. Wire wheeled the yoke & ends of the drive shaft & painted them with black
caliper paint to finish it off.
Sept 11-12,
At noon Sat I started blasting the sway bar. Finished it & cleaned up by 3pm,
ran out for 45min to get more wire wheels (couldn't use bench grinder due to
where stand is mounted/size of bar). Wire wheeled the bar for about 1hr till I
got a nice shiny finish(2nd pic partially done). Cleaned up, pushed the Indy outside & blew out the
garage. Did some testing of how I would hang the bar & to see if I could use the
big reflector I made for the dshaft coating last year. Turned out I could use the reflector. Mixed up a
batch of my custom Indy mix & blended & sifted it for about 1hr to make sure it
was an even color. Wiped down the sway bar with Pre (Eastwood) & setup my area
for spraying & gave it a good coat of powder.
Cleaned up my spray equipment & assembled the
IR lamp & put it in position. Started to cure it at 740pm. I didnt finished
curing it till 450am!! By the time I cleaned up & pushed the Indy back into the
garage is was 515am. I was beat after a very long day. Pics below of some of the
different stages from beginning to end.
Sept 17-19.
Made a dolly to help with the getting the trans under the truck. Pulling the
trans out used chunk of 2x10 that was a bit tricky to keep ontop of the floor
jack so wanted something better for re-installing the trans. Picked up a floor
jack saddle at
Princess Auto that replaces the normal cup for a wider square
piece with a chunk of rubber screwed to it. Cut a piece of plywood just a bit
bigger than the trans pan, used the rubber piece as a template to drill &
counter sink holes through the plywood. I attached it to the floor jack saddle.
Assembled my new shop crane & lifted the trans off the big cart & lowered it onto the
dolly. Worked out perfect, trans pan only about 1" off the ground with
trans on the dolly. Slid the
trans under the truck with lots of room to spare & didnt have to yank front
wheel & try to squeeze it in through the wheel well (like when I pulled it out).
Used some ratchet straps attached to the truck frame rails to lift the trans off
the dolly & high enough to get the floor jack with modified saddle under it.
Lifted it into position & attached the mount to the tailshaft. Put some threaded
rods through the case at the front & lowered it onto a 2x4 between the frame
rails.
Oct 10-11,
playing with the intercooler, cut off some more of the bracket off the back side
with my dremel to get it to sit in closer to the rad at the bottom. Sanded &
prepped an area under hood where the paint got rubbed off. Down low on inner
fender behind headlight. It probably wont be seen with the s/c installed but
figured good place to practise with the new airbrush I got last Xmas but still
hadnt used. Also sanded the gas, brake & ebrake arms. Gave them a couple coats
of matching Indy paint to cover up the red I had on prior. Red just didnt do it
for me so now they are color matched to exterior. Just used a brush cause didnt
want to remove them & didnt want to paper the interior to protect it.
Still have to do clear coat under hood & to the peddles. Maybe get that tomorrow
before work if I have time.
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