06 Pics n Slips
Test mock up at HP Indy Engines. My new Edelbrock 2.02
hds(292/255), Harland Sharp alum 1.6rr & Hughes 55mm 1050cfm. (thats HP's 4bb
06's Planned Mods
Hughes Billet TB 55mm 1050cfm
ARP head studs
Hughes main studs
Edelbrock 2.02 alum heads
PnP, decked & matched hds
Harland Sharp alum 1.6rr completed
Cometic MLS headgaskets completed
Eagle 4340 Billet 4" crank
Eagle H beam c rods completed
8.5cr blower pistons/forged completed
Hughes main b's stud girdle
Custom deep oil pan
Timing chain & gears completed
Comp 236/242 .580/.577L, 114
Accel 3bar map sensor
Failsafe 180 thermo
Mopar Dampner completed
Open up M1 for 55mm tb
Paint frame rails in engine bay completed
Paint power steering box
Repaint brake calipers
Paint motor mounts
Paint blue stripe on oilpan
thermal/moly coat pistons
Paint trans motor supports
Paint alternator ac bracket
Modify condensor bracket completed
Fabricate condensor bracket spacers working on
Ceramic paint M1
Paint pwr steering pump bracket
Tire valve caps w/ Rams heads
Paint block with ceramic
Paint timing chain cover black
New water pump tube
New oil dipstick tube completed
Fabricate 4 brackets to move coolers
Lots of plans again this year
Interior; Still trying to
locate a headlight switch face plate, new heater/ac knobs and a couple other
small things. Plan to change the carpet & fabricate a center console. I
want the console to hold a few switches, Autometer D-Pic (like a GTech), new
shifter with rpm limiter switch, adjuster for the boost retard, spot for my
laptop plus the cd 12pack changer and power invertor.
I will be removing the engine and replacing most of the
internals. Forged balanced & blueprinted low compression 408 with ported
Edelbrock 2.02 alum heads and a Hughes 1828 cam. Swapping ss 1.7s for alum
I still haven't figured out the tune and if I can use the SMT6
but am borrowing a 408 flashed PCM from HP Indy and will just run the boost
retard for now and tuning fuel with the Aeromotive FMU.
Chances are I will finally remove the ac from the truck. The
compressor crapped out last year and I really want the intercooler where the
condensor is. Unless I move everything back I can't see any other way to get the
intercooler out from under the bumper. Ill be replacing all the hose clamps for
the rubber hoses for the blower/intercooler. Figure I'm loosing a psi or 2
because of them. Stripped 2 trying to get the system to not leak.
Couple of the blower brackets, tb hat and possibly one or two
engine brackets will be getting powder coated.
This year's Goals
less than 8.0 in 1/8mile
less than 12.0 in 1/4 mile
0-60mph in under 4 seconds
Stay tuned on if I make it or not
Dec 16, Edelbrock heads in
getting ported, decked and gasket matched.
Dec 27-29, Started prepping my
garage for the next major project. Had to put a bunch of my spare/stock parts in
the basement to make room for everything I'm removing. Pulled out 1/2 the
intercooler pipe work and the cold air kit. Pretty cold in the garage so all the
rubber connectors and bends in the cold air, s/c and intercooler to tb
connections are a real struggle to get apart.
MSD Boost Retard
Auto Meter Pro Comp D-Pic
Made it up to HP Indy Engines
today and picked up a bunch of parts. New Edelbrock 2.02
alum heads came back from porting. Some big exhaust port work was done as
well as the intake side. Heads started at 200in/156exh. Finished porting the heads were at
246/212. Don't be deceived by these low #s. What counts most is the
heads flow 23% more on the intake and 36% more on exhaust then they did
out of the box. On the Hughes bench, that would be in the 290/252cfm
range. On Edelbrocks extra generous bench they would now flow 317intake
Gasket matched intake and exhaust ports
We did a mock up to make sure the head studs would be
ok with the new alum hds and to check fit with an M1 on top. That's a
m1/4bb we tested on it but shouldn't be any different from my m1/2bb. The
Hughes billet tb on top is "The Biggin", 55mm flowing 1050cfm. that will be
on the new motor. Also brought home my Hughes main girdle
as well as the Hughes HER1828AL cam (see spec sheet below). Other big item
is the custom oversized oil pan.
After Aurora Cylinder
head did their magic the Eddy heads now flow an additional 23% threw
the intake and a whopping 36% on the exhaust side.
On the Hughes bench, they should
flow approx 292/253cfm. Eldebrocks bench is more generous, 317/255 @
Hughes HER1828AL cam specs
Decided this cam is just too small and have ordered a custom Comp
The Eddy heads look so good I almost hate to put
a cover on them, Janesy suggested clear covers lol.
MP pinned oil driveshaft, Hughes Billet 55mm tb & main stud
girdle plus Harland Sharp alum 1.6rr
Still up in the air on a couple things, I have a bigger Hughes cam, 408 flashed pcm
I'm borrowing and a new MSD BTM but don't want to use any of it. Still looking,
like a FAST standalone or equivalent so I can run a bigger cam. I don't want to
have to change the cam again next year.
March 6 Custom
Comp Cam 236/242 .570/.589 lift (w/1.6) cut on a 114 ordered, I really need the
FAST now along with 72lb injectors. Need to remove a few things so the motor can
come out. Only have the Procharger out so far. Suppose to warm up this next
weekend so hopefully get some more stuff pulled off.
March 23-24 Had to drill
out one bolt to get the air box for the cai out. Next, drained the oil &
coolant, removed the flex a lite fans & the rad. Disconnected most of the
electrical, Removed the headers as well. If the wife doesn't have other jobs for
me be back in the garage again tomorrow.
March 26, Plugging
away, got a few more parts off today. Valve covers, alternator, ac and main
bracket but couldn't split the fuel line from the drivers side rail for
some reason. My disconnect tool wouldn't do it.(wtf?) Couple bolts holding
the trans lines below the engine not co-operating either.
March 26, Finally
got that PITA fuel line off the rail, distributor and M1 out. Only have motor
cross supports, starter motor and unbolt the tranny left.
April 8-9, I got
the last of the sensor disconnected, starter out, supports, Jim from HP Indy
Engines came over Sunday afternoon. Busted loose the last 4bolts holding the
motor in and had it in Jims trailer in no time. Disassembled it after taking it
up to Jims garage and I came home with another big box of spare parts (crank,
pistons, rods, heads etc, etc) Jim is dropping the caps off to the machine shop
and going to order me another timing chain (15kmiles/detonation stretched it)
and get the forged pistons in for thermal/moly coating.
Bye bye to cast low cfm parts and all that ugliness.
After tearing the motor down at HP Indy Engines we could
clearly see the damage I had done the last time out at the track back in
October. Head gaskets had leaks on 5 of 8 cylinders. Stretched a double
tchain that had only 12k miles on it. Go big or don't go at all lol.
Weighed up the loaded Edelbrocks with valves, springs
retainers, guides and roller rockers (HS1.6) and they tipped the scales at
32lbs. Weighing up the stock heads with only the valves in them they came to
52lbs. The Edelbrocks are probably about 23lbs less (46lbs pair) You can see how
small and restrictive the stock intake ports are compared to the stgIII Eddy's
April 11, While the
engine is out I will be cleaning things up under the hood a bit. Cleaned the
Edelbrock TES headers and gave them a few coats of Duplicolor High Heat Ceramic
paint. Chances are it wont last too long but with any luck, long enough to get a
few good pictures lol.
Late last year while spraying the engine with engine cleaner I
got it on the frame rail and the undercoating came off and some surface rust
showed up. Had to clean it up but just kept going till I got one
frame rail cleaned up and ready for painting. Need to still clean the other side
and the cross support. Post more pics tomorrow, on nights so I need sleep.
April 12-20, Work
continued scrapping the crap off the frame, brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads
to clean it bare. My god what did I get myself into lol. I couldn't stand
looking at the rusty power steering box in some of the pics on the site so had
to do something. Repainted the calipers, got one spindle painted and painted the
new deep oil pan (mopar orange prior) Also painted the motor mounts while I was
at it. Cooled off and rain is rolling in so paintings done for now.
The POR15, (paint over rust) Duplicolor caliper paint and HD
brake cleaner(8 lrg/2smll can) are some pretty wicked stuff. I think I was
probably getting high off it, I had to come in cause I was dizzy more than once.
Still cool out so I've had to keep the heater going and garage doors closed all
week while working on it. Hmm better check what I was posting in the chats
Lots of scrapping, scrubbing and wiping down with brake
cleaner got the frame looking like this
April 21-26, Lots of
rain and cold conditions so didn't get much done over the weekend but back at it
Tuesday with a few more things progressing. Painted and reinstalled the motor
mounts, touchups on the frame, started painting pass. side spindle and added a
blue stripe to the oil pan as well.
Motor mounts got a little treatment as well
Yeah I know, step away from the paint can!
Here it is all sealed up with POR15 on the frame and
Duplicolor ceramic caliper paint on the engine mounts.
25 days approx. and the motor will be ready to reinstall. Machine
work on the bottom end is just starting and with the spring rush underway up
here they are getting busier which will slow things down a bit. Caps will be
matched, then test fitted to the block with the main studs and girdle then the
caps get the tops milled for the girdle. Line bored, cylinders bored and honed,
it will be decked as well so both the heads and block will be square. Also the
bottom of the cylinder will be opened up for the bigger rods and oil passages
Still a few things I can do while waiting patiently for
the motor. May see some paint on my diff and axle tubes, Lots of POR15
left from the painting I did on the front 1/3 of the frame.
Powder coating has sort of fallen off the list for now. The cost
of the motor just keeps going up as I decide to replace pretty well all of it or
upgrade things even further.
Looks a bit different since painting the spring cup, spindles
and calipers. Before they were a nice shade of BUTT UGLY
May 15 Cold moist weather the last while so all
painting stopped for now. Hope to finish up next week if things co-operate.
Block finally at the machine shop so things are much closer. Working on
moving the ac condensor back by adding spacers to the brackets and modifying its
shroud. Plan to move both the trans coolers to where the bumper openings are so
the intercooler can mount in front of the condensor instead of under the
May 24, After a week and a bit of crappy weather
I have started up on painting again. Motor cross supports to the trans and the
alt/ac bracket are getting Duplicolor silver ceramic paint. Hope to get the power steering
pump off its bracket and paint it as well (running out of time though) . No pics
of before but will add some after its finished. Page is already huge and haven't
even got the motor in yet lol. Need to get started on the M1. I'm opening the bore for the
55nn tb and ceramic painting it as well.
May 27-28, Matched/ported
the M1 today for the 55mm tb, cleaned it & then tapped it up so its ready for
paint. Too humid this weekend so Ill wait till the weather is better for
June 2, The machine work
for the block is all finished and its ready to be picked up.
I am going to Jim's place (HP Indy
Engines) tomorrow so I can paint the block before assembly. 3 weeks and she
could be up n running again, all depends still have a few things to do.
June 3, At HP Indy
Engines today hanging around and helping a bit. My block looks real nice
and didn't need painting which is good cause it poured all day. Machine shop
asked what color I was painting it and did it for me. Cleaned up my timing
cover/water pump and gave a hand installing my rt+10 cam in SexMonkey's 318 Dak
(he got my 1.7rr & Janesy's 50mm F&B also) Jason (Sexmonkey) kept the jokes one
liners and banter going all day lol. Brought my timing cover/water pump home and
will paint it during the week. Brush on first 2 coats then spray the final coat.
Here are a few pics of the block on the engine stand
If you look close at the first picture you can see where the
block was notched for the bigger stroke in the outside of each cylinder wall.
June 12, Finished up
most of the paint work now for under the hood though I'm sure something will
catch my eye and need touching up. Here's a few pics of before n after as I
cleaned up, prepped n painted yet a few more items ;) Painted the water pump but
no before pics, only after.
Belt slippage with
If your running a centrifrugal supercharger Procharger,
Paxton, Powerdyne or Vortech and have belt slippage issues or belt squeal then I
think I have the solution for you. While I don't have pictures yet I have
confirmed that it will and does work. Take your stock tensioner and remove
the pulley. Drill a hole to the right of & below the s/c pulley on the main
bracket. You want to mount the old tensioner pulley so its just right of (as
close as you can within reason) the blower pulley and just below rubbing on the
belt as it runs towards the alternator above.
June 17-18, Short block
will be going together this weekend, then we will install it the following weekend. Jim
from HP Indy Engines is almost finished with it. Really looking forward to
letting her rip again even na. The cam was set 4 degrees advanced to give it a
bit more bottom end torque.
Borrowed a power steering pulley puller from CTC (crappy tire
) Painting the bracket for the pwr steering pump to
match the water pump, m1 and alt/ac bracket.
Freakin compressor died, ordered valve/reed kit. Spray the
last coats on the pwr steering bracket next week when the kit to repair the
compressor comes in.
June 25, BIG
THANKS to Jim Jessome @ HP Indy Engines for putting together this wicked short
block and coming down on a Sunday to help me put it in. It was really appreciated!!!
Lots of pics of the build and I will put up a page for it but for now just
adding a few ;) Pretty happy with my paint work & how the color scheme worked
out. Still have a few more pieces I want to paint that are related to the
supercharger but for now I am done. LMAO, yeah right, how many times have I said
I think it should look pretty good when I get everything back
June 26-27, Repaired my
air compressor with a new valve/gasket kit, used the spray gun for the final
coat of silver on the power steering pump bracket to test it. Detailed the
drivers side valve cover (only sitting on head in pic above) and bolted it down.
Got the flexplate bolted to the torque convertor as well. Off work the rest of
the week so I can get a lot more time in reassembling & detailing everything. Making some
modifications along the way and any touchups to paint that maybe needed.
June 28, Finished
securing the motor to the mounts and trans, tc shield on, starter motor, head
grounds and pwr steering bracket on with grounds, connect injectors and most of
the sensors. Cleaned up the alternator as best as I could.
June 29, Picked up more
paint today (Duplicolor Black) and some thermostat gaskets. Painted the tstat
tube gloss blue again and install it (carefully dry with heatgun) Mounted the
alt/ac bracket, painted the crank bolt, did some touch ups on the black frame
rails, Put the cap n wires back in. Had less than 8k miles so reused the ones I
had. (replace it all when adding s/c).
Day!), Talked to Marty
at KRC and ordered billet fuel rails while they were still on sale. Later on
I will be ordering an Aeromotive 1000 fuel pump, regulator, braided line,
fittings and a 15gall alum cell for under the bed (behind the axle)
Wrestled my header studs out of my stock heads. Got the
passenger side 1/2 on when I realized I had double studs on that side. The other
stud the nut was siezed and I couldn't break it free so I found some stainless
bolts to use where I could. Like to find some SS 12points to replace the old
ones. Got the exhaust all buttoned up but need to fix the rear hanger.
Mounted the power steering pump but still have to put the pulley back on.
Alt and ac in place but not secured, missing a mounting bolt
for the back of the a/c into the m1, still debating what
pulleys Ill run. May have to put my under drives on cause I don't have a stock
belt. Cleaned up the ac and alt as best I could before installing but they look
like crap compared to everything else.
Condensor modifications not panning out too well. Bottom is
moved back 1" and I had to cut off the excess of the brackets as it was
interfering with the install of the rad. Got a guy in the machine shop at work
to make me alum. spacers for behind the upper mounting brackets but the ac
hardlines not co-operating. Reassembled without moving it back at the top. It
has to wait for later when the Procharger goes back in. Looking for the
plastic/nylon ties for mounting the trans coolers in a new location and so I can
change the mounts on the Flexalite fans. I am trying to clean up all wiring,
hoses & brackets to make it a bit cleaner looking under the hood. Making 4
brackets to mount the trans coolers behind the bumper openings.
When I find the nylon ties I can mount the electric fans. The
only other thing holding me back from firing it up is the power steering pulley
pump. The pulley is only 1/2 way on. Cheap bolts I'm trying to pull it back on
with are low grade. Have to get some grade 8s or borrow an installer from Crappy
Tire to get it the rest of the way on.
Very close now to firing it up the first time
July 4th - 7th
Fired it up the first time using a bypass belt and only had the water pump.
Couldn't get the power steering pulley all the way on without an installer. Ran
real rough cause I had 5/7 mixed up lol. About 5min running it would
finally idle. Got it up to operating temperature constantly checking all gauges
to make sure oil pressure, air to fuel and fuel pressure, water/oil temps were
good. Dumped all the oil and filled it back up with fresh oil.
Had issues trying to get the power steering pulley back
on without an installer. Crappy tire said they had loaners yet at 3 stores nada.
Used grade 8, 3/8" threaded rod and got it 3/4 on. Couldn't seat it though so
went to Andy Renkin's shop down the street, Straight Line Racing & he seated it
in a minute. Next was setting the Cam Sync signal, but we couldn't get the Snap
On Scan Tool to recognize anything but the ac functions diagnostics. Everything
else in the B&G 408 flashed pcm is gone. I tried retrieving codes cause it had a
CEL before going to Andy's shop but it wouldn't go into diagnostic mode.
Returned to Andy's shop this time with the stock computer. Jim
had my MP PCM so wasn't sure if I would make it there but it did and set the
fuel sync with his Snap On Scan tool. Ordered 65lb Fast injectors and 4 remount kits for my fans and trans
coolers. Got home (wanted to stall under braking) and swapped back to the B&G
then retorqued headers. Took it back out for a test with the B&G and it ran much
better and wouldn't stall when braking or while stopped. After cleaning up
the big mess in the garage I went to move her and noticed a leak on the
driveway. She was hot but looks like its the pan. Have to jack it up Saturday
and find out for sure.
Ill be taking her out for a longer test drive tomorrow and may
get video/sound files of it at idle or running. Exhaust is a bit louder and I
have the 14x3 on it and it whistles as loud as it did with the blower. Test
drive ran like crap, parked in the garage n noticed oil leak in 2 spots and a
small drop of antifreeze. (drivers side/front/rear) Leaking from either heads (cometics)
or from the valley where M1 & heads meet. (crappy cork gasket)
I will not be running the motor again till I get the 65lb
injectors and stand alone engine management. Expecting them to arrive before the
end of the month.
July 17, after being off all last
week its time to get back to work (job & truck) Ill be fabricating a few mounts
for my twin trans coolers and relocating them to the bumper openings. Trying to
make room for the intercooler to mount in the grill.
July 27, Got sidetracked with the
wife's new car. She has only driven auto and the 07 Yaris we got her is
manual. I put a few miles on it trying to break it in and have been teaching
her how to drive it. Sooner she learns the sooner I get my V10 back lol.
Anywho,,,I did manage to finish up the 4 new alum brackets for relocating the
trans coolers. Here's some of the pics
The large black plastic washers just didn't work so I made
some out of aluminum instead
July 28, My FAST 65lb (683cc/min)
injectors came in today. Nice pink with chromed bodies. When I'm finished
it should look pretty wicked under the hood.
Aug 3, Fast stand alone arrived
today. Off work next week so perfect timing. Just hope its cool enough to work
in my garage. May have to install the injectors on the stock rails for now
still waiting on KRC to send me the billet fuel rails. The $299 June special
cost me $475 cause I added 408ci to them. They don't mention it on the site it's
extra but ask when ordering on the phone. Total BS seeing they cnc engrave KRC
Performance yet it cost me $175 for 408CI??? For that reason I got my FAST
stand alone somewhere else. Jim at HP Indy Engines got me a deal and I had
it on my bench in less than 3 weeks. KRC would of cost me $500+ more (Cdn) and
taken about 12-14weeks longer.
Aug 10, Fabricated
a bracket for the Accel 3bar map sensor.
Started to remove the complete engine wiring harness and
checking all connectors to make sure they are the same as the FAST harness I
have. Removed valve covers and headers and checked to see if the heads backed
off at all. Still at the 90ftlbs they should be. Ordered the Aeromotive
Eliminator fuel pump. Rated for up to 1500hp na or 1100hp force induction plus
the matching regulator, 100 and 10 micron in line filters and the Summit alum 20
gall fuel cell powder coated blue. Still need to order Autometer 20- 220 ohm
sender unit. multiple fittings and braided fuel lines (return).
Will I make it to the
track this year? Probably not, just too many things still
left to do. Way over budget and I still have more parts to order which has
slowed me down a bit. Getting the rails from KRC is taking forever!
Few things on my list to do, get the engine harness out and
put in the FAST wired harness, make
brackets for the FAST ecu, FAST CEL delete box and the fuel regulator plus
4 brackets to hold the billet fuel rails (if they ever get here) Also
removing the SMT6, Aeromotive FMU, Pro Flow inline pump and the rest of the
stock fuel system. Then the fun of installing a fuel cell behind the axle under
Aug 15, talked to KRC, some BS
about why I haven't got the rails yet. Said they will have a new set made for me
Friday. That's ok, ordered the wrong regulator and one of the filters from
Summit. I need the Aeromotive Pro regulator and for street use the regulator
controller and 12an 100micron filter for in front of the pump not 10an. Here's the
schematic with part #'s. except I will have Summit Cell & KRC rails. If you
need a fuel system heres a link to
all the schematics on their site. (use back button to return)
Aug 16, 3 things hold the harness
in now. One clip on top of the tranny and 2 of the 3 large connectors on the
firewall by the drivers side. (so close but cant get my big hands in there lol)
Fuel rails and injectors are out & the Pro Flow pump. I have about 1/2 tank of
gas so its going to be a bit trickier than last time to drop the tank.
Aug 24, All my fuel parts arrived from Summit today in only
2weeks. Ill post pics later. Have to return the A1000 regulator and 100micon
filter. Ordered the Pro regulator and 12an 100 micron filter. Still waiting on
my KRC rails. Got the wiring harness out finally, have to try to get the clips
off the stock harness (if I can) and try putting them on the FAST prepped
Sept 15. This week
I have been stripping the motor back down getting it ready to come out. Got a
call from KRC with a tracking # so my fuel rails are finally on the way!!! WOW
11weeks and they finally are shipping them.
11weeks 6 days and I
actually got my KRC fuel rails today. KRC ships with UPS, they are as big a
screw up as KRC and I wasted most of this week trying to meet up with the
delivery. My June $299 special came in at $656Cdn.
Sept 25, Started to order some of the many
fittings needed for my fuel system. Have the Viper 3800stall torque convertor on
the bench now as well.
Oct 4, I
finally got my stock fuel system out front to rear (1/2tank of gas ughh)..
Leaving the fuel door on for now. All the electrical is out but Aeromotive
DFMU and battery. Looking for a new battery box to mount in the back right
quarter panel. Only thing left holding the motor in are the dowls and 4 motor
mount bolts. Have to start to strip down the frame so I can paint it
with POR15. Going to take me a while to do that. Probably do it in
4stages. Under the cab to bed for each rail then under bed each rail. Have to
add in new cross supports at the back and remove the structure for holding the
spare tire (fuel cell location).
Still have to decide if the cell will be under the bed
or cut open the bed and expose it flush mount??? Kind of like the flush mount
cause it means more wt reduction and I think it will add a cool factor. Lets
face it, only thing this truck will haul is @ss!
Oct 25, Picked up the last filter
today and more fittings than I need lol. Looks like I have to modify the fuel
cell. Seems no one makes a double 8an to single 12an fitting so I'm going to get
a fabrication shop to cut the twin 8s out and put in a plate with a single 12an
fitting. The fuel line running to the pump will look like a fire hose LMAO !!!
Ill post a real pic of the fuel parts this weekend You cant see much with them
in the boxes in the pic above duhh.
Fuel cell will go in flush mounted. The pump will not flow its
rated amount if it is above the cells fuel outlets or could burn the pump out. I
don't want either so flush mount it is
Nov 5, Jim came down and we
pulled the motor out and removed the heads. I got the block all cleaned back up
but still have to remove the HS roller rockers and clean up the heads. Ill have
to touch up the paint in one or two spots, scuffed the oil pan on the way out.
Copper ISC Titan head gaskets look really good compared to the
crappy Cometics that wouldn't seal. No silicone on the Cometics but the Titans
have it everywhere plus built in
o-rings as well. The Titans have been tested in
a small block at up to 43psi boost! I am only looking to make 10-14psi so I
should have no worries.
Here's a few recent pics of fuel parts, motor out with heads
off & new Titan copper gaskets